How far would you walk for a piece of cake?
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The life of a Wainwright bagger, especially one who has limited time and resources, can mean hardship and sacrifice, but there are limits to my endurance and I must have my cake. For this visit I would be staying in Glenridding, so I planned my journey to allow me to stop off at Ambleside and visit my favourite bakery. The traffic on the M6, stopped and started all the way and by the time I was driving on the A591 to Windermere it was getting later. There was the usual backlog of vehicles crawling through the Central Lakes and I had to make a choice; my schedule meant walking 7 Wainwright Fells in the afternoon so I needed to get to my destination, I would have to by-pass Ambleside and I with my packed schedule it would mean there would be no bakery treat.
The cog wheels were whirring away and in the back of my mind a ludicrous plan was forming that could fulfil two objectives. Once the seed was planted the idea grew and very soon I had a perfectly reasonable itinerary for my grand day out; I would bag 11 Wainwright Fells and be able to visit the bakery.
The Fairfield Horseshoe, Lake District - the unconventional way
My plan was simple. Drive up to the parking at Brothers Water, climb up Hartsop Above How, then up to Hart Crag and round the first half of the Fairfield Horseshoe. Onwards to Ambleside, visit the bakery, buy cake, then head back towards High Sweden Bridge and complete the second half of the Fairfield Horseshoe. When I reached Dove Crag I could head off towards Scandale Pass taking in the final two Fells; Little Hart Crag and High Hartsop Dodd. It would then be a nice flat walk back to the car. It looked feasible from the map and there would be plenty of hours of daylight.
Fairfield Horseshoe - first part
The forecast was set fair for the day, but the when I reached Brothers Water it wasn’t looking so good. I could see the top of Hartsop Above How but above that it looked a bit murky. I started my climb up the first fell and hoped that it would clear up. It didn't take too long to bag Fell number 1; I carried on to Hart Crag. The mist seemed to be getting thicker; I had no choice but to persevere. I have bagged Fell number 2, but I am now standing in thick mist and it is completely silent. The top is rocky and there is no discernable path in either direction; I search for cairns that will surely mark the way but there are none within site. Which is the way to Fairfield? I have my map and my compass and try to take a bearing. I hesitate to start off in any direction as I fear that I will stumble over the edge. My heart is sinking and my grand plan is evaporating, I am not even sure I can find my way back down to Hartsop Above How. I don’t know if it was luck or that Sunday is a busy day in the Lake District; out of the mist emerged a fell runner. It was barely 9'o'clock so they must have also started early. They very kindly stopped and pointed me in the direction of the path to Fairfield. I thanked them and felt my good fortune.
Once on the path it was pretty straightforward, over Fairfield (Fell Number 3) and on to Great Rigg (Fell Number 4) and within the mist had dissipated and the sun was out. I was surprised by how many people I passed on the way down. They had waited for the weather to break before committing to their walk. I nodded and said ‘good morning’ many times. I had a wonderful view for my descent, passing over Heron Pike (Fell number 5) and Nab Scar (Fell Number 6) as I made my way down to Rydal with the added bonus of the sight of the Rydal Cave across the water.
An essential visit to Ambleside
It was about half past twelve when I finally reached Ambleside. It is a bit of a shock to walk along the busy road and be passed by so many cars and vans and buses. The town was bustling when I arrived with all the non-fell walkers and new arrivals taking it easy and looking for lunch. It reminded me that my own pack-up lunch remained in my bag. I promised myself I would stop when I had completed my main business; a visit to the Apple Pie Bakery Apple Pie Bakery Ambleside to buy a Bath Bun. I know a bun is not the same as a cake but I hope you can appreciate the motivation is the same.
With the throngs of people enjoying a sunny Sunday I wondered if I had miscalculated my arrival. It was the middle of the lunch period and would mean long queues and what if the shop had sold out? (It have been disappointed before!)
Again my luck was in, the queue wasn’t too long and they still had a few buns remaining. I purchased two and squeezed them into the top of my rucksack and headed onwards. I decided I had made good time so I could have a half an hour to look around a few more shops before I needed to start back.
The Fairfield Horseshoe - second part
It was nearly two o’clock by the time I was walking towards High Sweden Bridge. My feet were starting to feel sore and I was flagging after 10 miles of walking. I needed to stop and take on some refreshment. I had spent a bit too long window shopping in Ambleside so I could only allow myself ten minutes to eat half a sandwich and have some tea. It was all I needed to give me the energy for the next part of the climb, but the day had warmed up considerable and this ascent was much slower and felt a lot harder. Soon I had reached the summit of Low Pike, (Fell Number 7). I as progressed further the ground became increasingly boggy. The path seemed to go straight through the bog. I hate to get my boots wet and dirty; I have on my best, and very new, lightweight Berghaus boots. There was nothing for it, I had to squelch onwards. I climbed on and over High Pike (Fell number 8) and I started to see the people I had passed on my way down to Rydal. One confused chap asked if I was going round the Horseshoe again - ‘I’m doing it in two halves’ I replied, but he looked nonplussed.
I finally reach the last fell in the horseshoe - Dove Crag (Fell Number 9). I can’t really say I have completed the Fairfield Horseshoe because I missed out the stretch between Dove Crag and Hart Crag, it doesn’t matter to me as I have completed my objective in bagging 9 Wainwright Fells so far and I have my cake.
Getting down - a painful experience
It is getting late, around four o’clock, and I’m still high up - Dove Crag is over 2500 feet. The weather is holding, but the bright sunshine of earlier is gone and it is getting a little cooler. I have two more fells to complete on the descent. I have soon reached Little Hart Crag (Fell Number 10) and then High Hartsop Dodd (Fell Number 11) and I estimate I have little over two miles remaining. Now for the sting in the tale. The shortest way down is via a steep grassy slope. My feet are killing me and my thighs burning, every step is agony and the steep grass slope seems designed to inflict the most pain. Finally I am down and I hobble the short distance back to my car.
When to enjoy your cake in the Lake District?
By the time I get back t o Glenridding, it is after 6.00 pm. I think I’ve walked about over 15 miles and climbed over 5000 feet. It has been a thrilling day, but I’m too tired to do much more than boil a kettle and make some noodles. I just have time for a cup of tea before it gets dark. Surely now is the time for cake? After all that effort I don’t quite feel up to eating a bun. I retrieve them from my bag, and am disappointed to see they have been a little bit squashed, and put it in an airtight container. After an early night and 10 hours sleep, they tasted wonderful as breakfast, split in half and smothered in butter and with another mug of hot tea.
A tale for another day is the expedition from Grange to Grasmere to visit the Gingerbread shop. On that occasion I thought it would be a reasonable idea to buy some plants and carry them back over Greenup Edge. What was I thinking?
Conclusion - Walk the Fell, Eat the Cake, Buy the T-Shirt
I am writing this blog to celebrate the launch of my recipe section- Mountain Sounds Recipes . I wouldn’t put you through the horror of trying to recreate perfection with a recipe for Bath Buns. Visit the Apple Pie Bakery and buy one. I do have some other recipes that are worth a try. You don’t need a Lake District Fell to enjoy these treats, but I hope you find something you would like to bake and take and somehow they do taste even better when eaten mid-walk.